Living on the edge beyond fear.

Multimedia photostory by Rodrigo Gaya

November 10, 2019

In this sleepy 'Pueblo Magico', on the foothills south of the Mexico City mountain range, lives a strange-looking character playing protagonist in the  exchange of cultural traditions from old to young.

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In the valley, just below the Exit Point, there sits a tower. Hidden from view by the fog, where the targets are replaced.

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El Origen

This rebellion-inspired tradition arose from the Spanish colonial take-over, know as the Meztisaje, 'the mixture', occurring in the early 1600s.

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As  the modern day 'Carnaval' turns Tepoztlan into a street festival, theses characters are bound to dance. A response to the horrors of the conquest, the Chinelo pokes fun of their Spanish conquerors.

Although a strange presence when you first come across one, they're clearly a symbol of the town. Showcased throughout the mountain-side town, you are as likely as I was, to come across a Chinelo standing tall over your shoulder.

Depicted in murals, refrigerator magnets, and countless other artisanal iterations, are masked characters in pot-shaped hats with feathers, beads depicting ancient warriors, wearing full black tunics, gloves, and a eerie life-like meshed mask with blue eyes, rosy cheeks, and a pointy beard.

"The requirement for the Chinelo is simple, when the band plays, they dance."

-Edith Salazar

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Lead by the township's flag bearer, each of the surrounding towns, bring their band, Chinelos, and townspeople, all asked to dance as long as the band is playing.

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Jumping up and down, shaking of the hips is required. Sometimes for as long as 5 minutes, leading to some sweaty Chinelos.  To overcome the intense heat, they protect themselves by covering up in cloths under their tunics and hats, and sweating.

La Leyenda

Ask most tourists - visiting for 'tacos pre-hispanicos y micheladas', who these symbolic characters are, you'll mostly get "Oh that's the Chinelo. But, I don't know much else."

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This is where Edith Salazar comes in. Daughter of a traditional Chinelo outfit maker, she's lived many 'brincos'. Taking part as a Chinelo herself as a child, helping make the outfits, and now as an informal Tepoztlan/Chinelo guide.

I met her standing next to a tall, silent Chinelo at the doorstep of the local theater in the town's center. She's the first interview in the upcoming video.

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With her classic Morelense accent, she guides us through the Chinelo experience, customs, & traditions she's learned.

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Later in the video below, you'll meet Fernando Ortiz, a modern-day legacy holder. Chinelo to the core, next to where you'll find his passion for Star Wars. With an outfit designed with the film in mind,  he's a great example of how ever-evolving a cultural tradition really is.

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-RGV

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